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Coordinating Roof Insulation with Metal Building Construction

Posted on May 10, 2018March 21, 2025 by MBCI

Energy codes and increasing energy costs have prompted the installation of more roof insulation into metal buildings in recent years to make them more energy efficient. That is fundamentally a good thing and metal building manufacturers have developed ways to accommodate a variety of building enclosure packages that increase energy performance while still being engineered to meet the structural requirements of the building. This allows the whole building envelope to be designed and fabricated so it works as a complete, coordinated system.

Insulation helps maintain a comfortable interior temperature in your metal building during the winter and summer months.

The metal roofing or metal building suppliers typically don’t design the insulation systems. However, it is important to include them in the discussions or make them aware of what type of system is to be installed. It is not uncommon for a metal building to be ordered with the design stipulation of “insulation by others.” In that case, coordination is needed between the person ordering/designing the insulation system and the metal building manufacturer or roofing supplier. Since there are a great many variables in the way that insulation can be provided, it is not appropriate to think that the design of structural systems (purlins and roof bracing) and cladding systems (clips, fasteners, and metal roofing profiles) will necessarily accommodate all the same insulation in all conditions. Rather, unless the specific details of the insulation system being used in the building are communicated effectively at the time of the order, the manufacturer can not assure compatibility of the systems used with the insulation system that is to be installed.

In order to understand some of the variability in the options, let’s look at some of the common ways that metal buildings are or are not insulated.

Uninsulated Roofs:

Buildings that do not have any heat or air conditioning in them may not need for an insulated roof. This could be true for outdoor shelters, some agricultural buildings, or vehicle storage buildings. However, uninsulated metal roofs have the potential for “roof rumble” as they move due to thermal expansion and contraction, wind, or weather as there is no insulation to mask or deaden this noise. Absence of insulation can also lead to condensation during certain times of the year if temporary heat is added to the building. This condensation builds up and can drop or fall onto whatever is below. Many times condensation issues are mistaken for roof leaks when in fact it’s a mechanical design issue of the building envelope that’s not been properly addressed. If neither sound nor potential condensation are a concern, then there’s no problem. But if either or both need to be avoided, then some basic level of insulation may be prudent.

Over the Purlin Systems:

One of the most common insulation systems for metal buildings and/or open framing systems is to simply install rolls of blanket insulation. In this case, fiberglass insulation with a reinforced liner is draped over structural beams and purlins. The rolls are supplied to length by the insulation supplier based upon the roof structural layout and the required “R” value necessary for the building envelope in thicknesses that can vary from 3″ to 12″. Is is this thickness to be installed over open framing that the metal building/roofing supplier must be made aware of. Based on this thickness, the panel profile can be verified to determine if it can be used as well as confirmation of the correct clip heights and screw lengths for installation. Keep in mind that the supplier will offer a guide to the installer based upon insulation thickness. As insulation can vary by manufacturer, it will be up to the installer to make adjustments as needed in the field to ensure proper placement and hold modularity of the steel system. (See Respect the Module: Metal Roofing Panels are Modular for Good Reason)

Cavity Fill Insulation Systems:

When higher “R” values are required for roof insulation, a single layer over the open framing system may not be sufficient. When that occurs, the designers of the building envelope may need to employ the framing cavity to add more insulation. There are also variation on the cavity fill approach.

One means is to simply introduce a second layer of unfaced blanket on top of the faced insulation. Sometimes referred to as a “sag and bag” approach, here the first layer of insulation over the purlins is ordered to accommodate larger amounts of drape between the roof structure to permit another layer of unfaced insulation to be added on top. This increases the insulation thickness between the purlins but keeps it thin enough to be compressed to accommodate the roof panel installation. For coordination purposes, the thickness of this upper insulation over the purlins needs to be known by the building manufacturer so the clips and fasteners can be properly sized. Likewise, the amount of insulation draping between the purlins needs to be known to determine if purling bracing or other accessories may potentially interfere with the insulation installation.

Other types of cavity fill system may include a faced batt or face roll insulation with long tabs, which are secured to the tops of roof purlins and nest fully into the purlin cavity to fill the space more effectively. This helps in eliminating greater compression of multiple layers of insulation on top of the purlins and permits an additional layer of unfaced insulation on top of the roof structures and/or a thermal spacer block. This system may also require some intermediate banding to support the insulation between the primary supports.

A liner system may be installed that employs a continuous vapor retardent material. This liner is secured to the bottom of the roof structure and additionally supported with metal banding allowing the cavity to then be filled with unfaced insulation between the purlins. More unfaced insulation can also be added on top of the purlins as well. In all of the cases where cavity fill systems are used, it is important to advise the building manufacturer/roof supplier which type is being used to ensure proper panel clip heights and screw lengths. This is important because these systems can and will interfere with the roof structural bracing making them more difficult to install. The metal building supplier may be able to offer bracing alternatives or remedies to eliminate some or all of the bracing that would otherwise be in the way when installing the roof insulation. There may also be suggestions on how to avoid impeding or penetrating the vapor barriers which could lead to condensation issues. Overall, it is best to discuss and coordinate all of these items ahead of time.

Rigid Board/ Composite Systems:

In this insulation approach, rigid foam insulation board is used to achieve the sought after energy performance. Commonly, these use metal deck panels over the roof structure thus supporting the insulation and a vapor retardant material on top of the deck. The insulation and the metal roofing can then be secured to the framing substructure or to the metal deck itself, which means the details of attachment need to be reviewed and engineered to avoid adverse affects on the roofing system.

Minimum decking gauge, clips spacing and clip screw lengths should be considered as well as associated adjustments to labor costs.

Spray-on Insulation:

All of the above systems typically require attention to providing additional air and vapor barriers and proper cutting and fitting during installation so as not to cause unwanted infiltration or to prevent condensation from occurring. For these reasons and more, some people will consider the use of closed cell spray-on foam insulation, which can continuously provide all of these features in one product. It can also be installed after the roof is completed and structure is weathertight.

Any corrosion of the panel due to adhesion of the insulation is not covered by the panel.

In the case of metal buildings, spray-on insulation is typically applied in the field onto the inside face of installed roof panels and sometimes wall panels too. There are, however, a few concerns with this approach in metal buildings. First, if conditions are not right and the panels are not properly prepared, then the spray foam can, in fact, trap moisture between the insulation and the metal components it is sprayed onto. That can lead to corrosion of the metal or deterioration of the insulation. Secondly, not all spray foams on the market are intended for this type of use so they don’t always adhere well to some metal panels, meaning it could become loose and fall away. Finally, continuous spray foam in this application will not always be able to expand and contract at the same rate that metal does. In some cases, that could mean that the foam suffers from differential movement causing it to break or lose adhesion.

For all of these reasons, be certain to research all options before considering or selecting a foam spray-on insulation that will not negatively impact your roof performance. If a foam insulation is preferred, it may be worth considering the use of insulated metal panels (IMPs) that are designed, engineered, and fabricated to be compatible with metal building construction.

Recognizing all of the above variations and options, the key point to remember about insulating metal buildings is the importance of communication between those designing and ordering an insulated metal building and those who are manufacturing and fabricating it. To find out more about the best ways to do that, contact your local MBCI representative.

The Importance of Roof Installer Training and Certification

Posted on March 27, 2018March 21, 2025 by kbuchinger

Many metal roofing installers may think that their years of experience on the job is enough. But even for those who have been putting up metal roofs for a long time, the truth is that if they haven’t put up a particular brand’s roof before, they need to go through that manufacturer’s installer training and get certified. There are several reasons for this.

More and more, architects are starting to specify that an installer must be certified by the manufacturer of the product being installed.
For many manufacturers, including MBCI, in order to get a Standard III warranty with no dollar limit—or any Day One warranty—training and certification are required.
Installers need to know the proper technique and protocols—for a particular manufacturer’s product! After all, you don’t make any money by going back and fixing leaks.

There are many other standing seams that are very similar to those that MBCI sells, and while they may look similar, there will be a number of small differences, such as the way panels are notched or the way sealants are put in. Even the way companies test panels can be different. For instance, if you have a Florida or Dade County approval or an FM approval, that’s all tied into the way the roof system is tested. So, if someone has a project where one of those things is required, it is imperative to make sure the installer is using that brand’s system of doing things, down to every last detail. These are some of the things covered in certification courses.

Certification Courses and Installer Training

At MBCI, we offer a three-day course that covers all of our standing seam panels, and have a separate two-day course for insulated metal panels, which provides advanced installer training in metal roof installation through classroom lecture and hands-on application in a variety of MBCI’s products, assembling roof systems on a mockup to reinforce what was learned from the presentations. Courses take place once a quarter in different locations throughout the United States.

In terms of who should attend certification courses, generally speaking, it’s the person from the company who will be doing the actual work since a certified installer needs to be on the roof any time any work is being done on the roof. He or she is the one we train. And that installer is tied back to the company in order for them to receive certification. That company has to have workman’s comp and general liability insurance. If the certified person leaves the company to go elsewhere, the first company needs to certify someone else.

The Bottom Line of Certification

From a bottom line perspective, it’s important for companies to be proactive in making sure there is always someone on their team who is a certified installer for the products they use—or might use. Not only will they learn tips and tricks for proper installation, but it will also avoid a situation where you have a job, the panels are being delivered the next week and you realize you need someone to be certified. Maybe it’s three weeks until the next certification opportunity. You’ll want to have all that settled before you need it.

Just because you’ve been installing roofing for 30 years, doesn’t mean installer training and certification isn’t necessary. Our best advice is to come to the class and learn all the little idiosyncrasies about whatever manufacturer’s roofing panels you’ll be installing. This is a case where even a little knowledge goes a long way.

Proper Fastening Helps Prevent Leaks and Callbacks

Posted on December 18, 2017March 21, 2025 by Randy Tweedt

Installing metal roofing and siding requires placing and aligning metal panels over the structural supports. But ultimately it requires installers to spend a fair bit of time fastening them in place, typically using a great many fasteners. It is easy to get complacent about this repetitive activity, but the reality is that every fastener plays a crucial role in the integrity and longevity of the installation. Properly selecting, installing, and using the right tools, allows for a proper fastening process that assures a weathertight installation. But if a few fasteners are installed poorly, causing water or air leaks, then the installer is called back to correct the condition. Do a lot wrong, and warranties can be void, with the durability of the building left compromised, possibly requiring a total do-over.

What’s the difference between a good fastening installation and a problematic one? Here are some of the things to pay attention to onsite:

Fastener Types:

The most common type of fasteners used in metal buildings are self drillers, which vary based on diameter, length, head shape, and material. They are also specifically designed for use in metal substrates. Different fasteners are also available for wood versus metal, and either type can be sized for different substrate and panel thicknesses. Zinc alloy or stainless steel fasteners are common choices for durability, longevity, and avoiding galvanic action with other metal products. Selecting and using the right fastener type for each of the different locations on a metal building begins with determining what is being attached and what is it attaching to.

Fasteners can also be colored to match the roof or wall panel.

Weathertightness:

Fasteners of any type cannot be relied upon by themselves to keep out the elements. Instead, a sealing washer is used that is compressed between the fastener head and the metal panel as the fastener is tightened to form the weathertight seal. High-performance or long-life fasteners may be required for a durable approach to weathertightness and/or may be required by the metal building manufacturer to receive a weathertightness warranty.

Installation Process:

With the right fasteners onsite, the success of the installation now rests with the field crews. A few minutes to review the different fasteners and match them with the right tools and settings for installation is time very well spent. Since electric screw guns with or without impact drivers are common on the jobsite, it’s easy to think any tool will do, when it probably won’t. The wrong tool at the wrong setting can place too much torque or other force on the fastener, causing it to crush or damage washers or even the metal panels. Impact drivers are rarely needed in most cases and, while the fastening needs to be tight, overtightening is never a good thing.

Fastener Locations:

In addition to weathertightness, fasteners provide a structural function as well. Their location and spacing will directly correlate to the ability of a panel to resist wind and other forces after installation. Therefore, it’s always best to use information prepared by a professional engineer on the proper fastening locations, spacing, and sizes. The calculations behind such information can prove to be the difference between a successful installation and one that creates problems.

Understanding the importance of fasteners and the role they play in the integrity of the building, and corresponding warranties, allows installers to see beyond the repetitive task of fastening and into the craft of assembling a durable, long-lasting building. To find out more about fasteners for metal products and systems for your next project, contact your local MBCI representative.

The Importance of Vapor Seals in IMP Installations

Posted on November 14, 2017March 21, 2025 by MBCI

Insulated metal panels (IMPs) used for building envelopes offer great simplicity in terms of enclosing a building in an attractive, energy-conscious manner. However, they require somewhat different thinking in terms of design and installation compared to conventional single skin panels on metal building with separately installed fiberglass insulation and vapor liners. That’s because, while the insulation aspect of IMPs is well controlled in the factory, the air and vapor sealing aspects are entirely in the hands of the installers in the field.

Why is vapor sealing a concern? Because it can make or break a building envelope. Airborne moisture that travels through seams, joints, or gaps between IMPs or between the panels and the structural steel can condense and wreak havoc on the integrity of the wall system. If that condensed moisture makes its way to unprotected edges of metal, then rusting, staining, and deterioration can occur. If it collects and drains out the bottom of the panel, then a building owner may mistakenly think that the IMPs are leaking water. If the moisture works its way inside a panel and becomes trapped it could freeze in cold climates or applications, and push panels enough to make unsightly or fail to perform as intended.

How does an installer of insulated metal panels avoid these issues? By properly using sealants as recommended by the IMP manufacturer to close the gaps and assure a vapor-tight installation. Here are the key things that installers need to pay attention to:

Sealant Types

In most cases, butyl caulking is the recommended sealant for panel joints and perimeter attachments, although urethane sealant may be called for in some cases. For fire-rated panels, silicone sealants are usually required. The important caveat for all of these sealants is that they are most successfully installed when they’ve been stored within acceptable temperature ranges. In cold weather, they may need to be kept in a warming bin; in warm weather they must be kept out of direct sunlight.

Apply continuous non-curing butyl sealant to the interior panel joint with a bead size of approximately 1/4″ as shown above.

Tools to Use

Applying any of the needed sealants will require using the proper tools. Manual caulking guns don’t provide the consistent quality of application needed, so electric or pneumatically operated applicators are required.

Sealant Location

For typical building applications (non-freezer/coolers), the vapor sealant is placed in the interior panel joints when IMPs are installed vertically. For refrigerated spaces, the sealant is commonly placed on the exterior. If the IMPs are installed horizontally, then it usually is sealed on both the interior and the exterior panel joints to help with weather sealing as well. Note that the final placement of the sealant, as well as type and location, is actually the responsibility of the mechanical contractor/architect and not the panel supplier as it is to be based also on the mechanical design of the building envelope. In addition, the entire perimeter of the panels where they meet the building structure needs to be sealed. This includes the base flashing, interior corner trim, and eave struts. Further, marriage beads of butyl sealant must be placed at all panel terminations.

Panel Installation – Sealant

Sealant Continuity

In order to be effective, all sealant and caulking must be fully continuous. That means that the thickness of the sealant bead must be consistent and thick enough to fully close all gaps between or around IMPs. It should not be overdone, however, since too much sealant will ooze out between panels that are pressed together, causing a bit of a mess on one side of the other. Sealant continuity also means that it can not be interrupted due to poor adhesion. Therefore, before any sealant is installed, the application surfaces must be cleaned and dry to be sure that full adhesion is achieved. Always check with the panel suppliers details for minimum bead size and critical locations.

Factory-Installed Option for IMP

Some IMP manufacturers offer the option of having sealant pre-installed along the edges of the IMPs. Since the panels are wrapped and sealed for shipping, the sealant is protected and should be ready for use onsite. However, in this case, it is incumbent on the installers to handle the panels quite carefully, since the inadvertent placement of a hand over the sealant can damage it or deform it enough to render it ineffective. This factory-installed option offers a labor saving in the field but must be checked during installation and can be impacted by time climate depending on the time of year. Field application, while requiring more labor, does provide greater onsite flexibility for installers. Nonetheless, in all instances, the installer must ensure the sealants are properly located.

By paying attention to the details of sealing and caulking, a metal building constructed with IMPs will be a quality installation that will hold up quite well over time. To find out more about IMP metal products and systems that can help your next building be more vapor- and weathertight, contact your local MBCI representative.

Proper Cutting and Cleaning of Metal Building Panels

Posted on August 10, 2017March 21, 2025 by Jason Allen

Metal building panels, whether for roofing or walls, are manufactured with a long-lasting and durable finish of different types and in many colors, allowing the panels to hold up and look great for decades. However, once they get to the building they may need to be cut to fit a field condition, or they may need to be cleaned either during or after installation for any number of reasons. Innocently doing either, without understanding that doing it the wrong way could compromise the integrity of the finish, can be disconcerting at best or warranty-buster at worst. Here are a few tips for the proper cutting and cleaning of metal panels.

Cutting Metal Panels:

Field cutting of panels is certainly allowed and acceptable to manufacturers and is common, particularly at framed openings. However, there are two things to pay attention to here:

Cutting Method: If field cutting is required, the panels must be cut with nibblers, snips or shears to prevent edge rusting. Do not cut the metal panels with saws, abrasive blades, grinders or torches. Abrasive saw blades, grinders and torches can leave irregular or rough edges that are no longer coated or finished, thus causing rust and corrosion.

Corrosion on this panel edge is due to an abrasive saw blade cut.

Cutting Location: All cutting of metal will produce fine particles, or swarf, that will fall from the cut. If this swarf falls on the roof, it can cause permanent staining and, if enough of it accumulates in one place, it could rust completely through the metal roof panel. Therefore, never cut metal panels on the roof or over other metal panels. It is best to cut the panel down on the ground where the swarf can be captured and disposed of.

Accumulated swarf from cutting is staining this metal panel.

Cleaning Metal Panels:

Metal panel manufacturers will usually provide information and directions for cleaning. A typical set of cleaning recommendation follows, based on a progression of cleaning levels—start with number 1 and work your way down the list for tougher jobs.

For simple cleaning, water and mild detergent will often be all that is needed. However, bleach should never be used, since it can change the finish color or interact disastrously with certain metals.
For water-soluble dirt or other deposits requiring more complete cleaning, a solution of hot or cold water mixed with detergent is appropriate. In a container of water, use a 5 percent solution of commonly used commercial (non-industrial, non-bleach) mild detergent, so as not to have any deleterious effect on the painted metal surface. Use a cloth or a soft-bristle brush for application of the cleaning solution, followed by an adequate rinse with clean water. Alternatively, pressure-washing with a 40° tip is also an option.
For non-water-soluble deposits such as tar, grease, oil and adhesives, a solvent or alcohol-based cleaner may be required. In this case, since most organic solvents are flammable and/or toxic, they must be handled accordingly. Generally, keep them away from open flames, sparks and electrical motors. Use adequate ventilation, protective clothing and goggles, and read the manufacturer’s Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) of any solvent used for any other specific safety details. The following are among the cleaners recognized by manufacturers for this type of non-water-soluble cleaning:
1. Alcohols
  1. Denatured alcohol (ethanol)
  2. Isopropyl (rubbing alcohol)
2. Solvents
  1. VM&P naptha
  2. Mineral Spirits
  3. Kerosene
  4. Turpentine (wood or gum spirits)

Regardless of the level of cleaning required, never use wire brushes, abrasives, or similar tools that will abrade the surface coating and leave scratches or other finish damage and lead to corrosion. Further, keep in mind that any misuse or abuse of any of the acceptable cleaning agents will automatically void any manufacturer’s warranty for the affected surfaces.

By using the tips above to properly cut and clean metal panels, installers can avoid the problems of corrosion, staining or other surface damage. Thus, the integrity and beauty of the finish is maintained without any impact on the warranty. To learn more about metal panel finishes, cutting, cleaning and warranties, contact your MBCI representative.

The Case for Day One Weathertightness Warranties

Posted on June 20, 2017March 21, 2025 by kbuchinger

Once upon a time, a “standard warranty” was indeed the industry standard for weather tightness warranties in the metal roofing realm. To make a long story short, this meant that manufacturers supplied a “manufacturer’s standard warranty” based on an initial review of the details to ensure that the roof could be properly installed but left it up to others to ensure that the details were followed. If the roof was not properly installed and resulted in a leak then the manufacturer’s warranty did not cover it. At this point, the project had been closed out and the installer was long gone, sometimes even out of business. The owner, architect, general contractor, installer and manufacturer were then at odds with each other leading to dissatisfaction and frustration all around.

Warranty Evolution

In the mid ’90s, the Single Source or Day One warranty was born and quickly caught on throughout the metal roofing industry. Generally, this warranty required that the roofing contractor come to the manufacturer’s training course to be trained in the proper installation of their roof system(s). In addition, the manufacturer typically required inspections at the beginning, middle of the roof installation with a final inspection just before the crew demobilized from the project. Once the warranty was issued, the manufacturer was responsible to the building owner from the date of substantial completion for the weathertightness of the roof. To be sure, there are still terms and conditions to the warranty, just like with any type of product warranty. For instance, the warranties don’t cover leaks caused by natural disasters or damage caused by other trades on the roof. These warranties provide very good coverage and the best part is that the inspections greatly reduce the chance of a leak in the first place, which is what any building owner would want.

Chain of Lakes Elementary School featuring Hunter Green SuperLok® Metal Panels

There is an overwhelming agreement on all sides that the evolution toward the Day One warranty has been a good thing for the industry. It has forced installers to do things right from the outset and has compelled manufacturers to come up with good, clear details for some of the more complex architectural elements that architects want to use such as dormers, hips, etc.

Conclusion

Manufacturers all want their roof installations to go smoothly, to look good, be trouble-free and perform as expected for many years. To that end, they are willing to work with specifiers, roofing contractors and others to provide assistance, training and job specific help as needed. To ensure that the roofs are properly installed, the specifiers and contractors need to work together with the manufacturers to ensure good communication about the requirements for the specific project and what each party needs to make the project successful.

What to Know About Dissimilar Metals in Metal Roofing Installations

Posted on June 1, 2017March 21, 2025 by Jason Allen

While metal roofing is often used because of its resiliency, strength and longevity, there are circumstances under which corrosion and other reactions can become real issues, to the great detriment of the system’s performance and life cycle. Some basic knowledge and awareness of common causes of galvanic corrosion (also called “electrolytic corrosion”) from the use of certain dissimilar metals, can go a long way in mitigating potential problems.

Lead and Copper with Metal Roofing

Lead from pipe penetrations can deteriorate the metal.

Lead and Copper are the biggest culprits when it comes to shortening the service life of metal roofing due to corrosion. It almost goes without saying to make sure these metals don’t come into contact with the roof, specifically roofs with Galvalume Plus products. Here we’ll take a brief look at some of the common problems that can arise.

Due to the high probability of corrosion, it is not advisable to use lead roofing products, such as lead roof jacks for pipe penetrations.

Additionally, graphite, which is the primary material in the common pencil, is extremely corrosive to aluminum and aluminum alloys. Therefore, it is not advisable to write on a metal panel with a graphite pencil. In time, the element will eat through the coating and it will rust out. Eventually, you’ll actually be able to see whatever you wrote on there (that’s not what you want!). Instead, using a Sharpie or a grease pencil will solve the problem with little to no effort.

Chemical damage caused by corrosion and other reactions.

Copper is another metal that does not react well with galvanized metal panels used in many metal roofing systems. Contact between copper parts and metal roofing can greatly increase the likelihood of corrosion. Some specifics to keep in mind:

Don’t use treated lumber, which has copper in it. Sometimes, an installer will set some type of treated lumber post and place something on top of it.

Copper in condensation can eat through metal, damaging the structure.

Over the course of a year or even a few months, the panel will face deterioration at that spot since once moisture invades it will corrode the panel due to chemical reaction. A possible solution to avoid this scenario if treated lumber or a lightning system with a cable is needed is to ensure the cable has aluminum instead of copper.

Another situation where copper can be an issue is with an AC unit on the roof. The AC unit may have copper in the coils, and when condensation drips out on to the roof with copper in the water, those drips onto the metal roof will cause corrosion. The solution in this case would be to install PVC piping all the way up the roof so the copper does not make contact.

Conclusion

An understanding of these and other potential corrosion pitfalls that exist from using dissimilar metals and knowing the basics behind galvanic reactions will provide a solid basis for the smart, proper selection of roofing installation metals. With this knowledge in hand, problems can be eliminated before they occur, which in turn can save time, money, and resources, not to mention meeting the all-important goal of extending the life of the metal roof.

Knowing When to Call the Metal Manufacturer: Part 1

Posted on April 25, 2017March 21, 2025 by MBCI

Metal panel installers have a tough job—not only navigating the details of the task at hand but also being confident enough to know when to seek the manufacturer’s guidance. Part of overseeing a successful project is for the installer to know when something is out of his or her comfort zone, beyond their expertise, or just doesn’t look or feel right. And when that’s the case, it’s imperative to call on the manufacturer for input before it’s too late.

Technical support, such as MBCI’s Ask the Technical Expert, can be most useful for answering upfront general product questions. Once the project has started or material is on the jobsite, it’s generally preferable for the installer to go through their sales person or field service/customer service representative rather than sending a question via a website.

When to Seek Assistance from the Manufacturer

First things first: The installer should study the installation manual and construction drawings. If, after that, he or she is experiencing a problem—for instance, the panel doesn’t look right, it’s not engaging properly, it’s not meeting the tolerances stated in the manual, the fasteners that are called out in the drawings are not working or are even missing—then contacting the manufacturer should be the next step. That one simple call can save a lot of time in potential headaches.

The above image depicts damage to metal panels caused by improper storage, rendering them unable to install properly.

While it’s not the manufacturer’s direct responsibility to make sure the installer is doing the job on site per the drawing details, a reputable manufacturer can at least provide recommendations when asked how to possibly alleviate or mitigate any number of potential pitfalls, or share common oversights that other installers have made—and how to avoid those same mistakes.

Top Circumstances

Here are two of the top circumstances under which MBCI recommends immediately reaching out to the manufacturer:

Damage to the physical panel itself. If a customer receives materials and there’s suspected or noticeable damage to it, he or she may or may not know what impact that damage could initially have on the system. Notify the manufacturer immediately to assess if it’s a minor issue or if the panels should not be installed because it will be detrimental to the system. No one wants to have to reorder or wait for new materials, but it’s worse to wait until after installation when the impact of removing/replacing is significantly more costly and time-consuming.
Fasteners. Contact the manufacturer if the substrate on site changes in any form from the project details, there is any difficulty with the screws themselves engaging, or any problems with the fastener type. When installing fasteners, make sure to use the ones per the installation details. The manufacturer can assist in verifying the correct fastener is being used in the correct location per the details and per the substrate on site. There could be situations where the installer is not accurately reading the drawing or has substituted an alternative screw not supplied by the manufacturer. Don’t assume. Instead, call.

There are, of course, other scenarios when a call to the manufacturer will save time, money and aggravation for all parties involved in an installation, including alignment and substrate issues, the addition of accessories, and problems with panel engagement. In Part 2 of this topic, we will go into more detail on these additional circumstances.

For more information on metal roof and wall products and training, MBCI offers courses through its Metal Institute. These courses are available for general training purposes or for those seeking installer certification.

Alignment Tolerances of Substrates for Metal Panels

Posted on March 8, 2017March 21, 2025 by MBCI

Installers take note! It is your responsibility to ensure the substrate material over which you place the metal panels is in proper alignment before beginning installation. Otherwise, you can suffer some significant negative impacts on the overall appearance of the system.

As we’ve discussed in a previous blog article, Choosing Proper Substrates for Metal Roofing Systems, the substrate (or substructure) rests underneath the metal panels is a key part of the roofing or wall system. It serves two main functions: to act as a base to which the metal material is attached and to serve as a structural member to transfer loads to the primary framing system.

Knowledge is Power

Too many times, inexperienced metal building sheeting installers or sheeting-only contractors may not realize how big an impact alignment can have; it’s very easy to get too far into the process before recognizing there’s a problem. The issues must be dealt with at the very beginning of the process as well as the way through the installation of the panel system, whether it’s roof or wall panel installation, and must be checked frequently.

Major Misconception

One common misconception, especially for those new to the panel system, is that aesthetic anomalies are a result of panel quality. When troubleshooting, the manufacturer will ask a series of questions about the installation and alignment. However, by that stage, the installer may be beyond the point where it’s an easy fix, depending on the circumstances.

Key Considerations

Understand the general panel installation characteristics by reading the installation manual. Become familiar with which screws and clips to use, and how the panels physically connect as well as types of insulation systems that work well with the panel system and if there are any limitations related to insulation types or thicknesses.
Installers must be certain that the substrate material they’re installing over, whether metal or wood or something else, has been properly erected and properly aligned before panel installation begins.
As they’re putting the panels over the substrate, installers should be checking the alignment, whether vertically/horizontally along the leading edge of the panel or inward and outward on the panel itself. With most metal panels, major variances in the substructure will cause the panel to accentuate any errors. As a result, the panels will look unattractive and be difficult to install.
When the panel installation first begins, the installer might not immediately recognize there’s a problem. A variance in the steel or in the substructure can have a big impact, which won’t be known until it’s too late. As an example, consider erecting half a wall on a cloudy day without checking alignment. At the end of the day, it looks fine, but the next day when the sun is shining on it, the “aesthetic delights” due to misalignment are obvious.
Check panels during installation for any damage due to handling, surface irregularities and how it engages or lays on the steel. Do not install any “suspect” panels and contact the manufacturer as needed.

Types of Problems with Alignment

Different types of panels can react differently to a substructure out of alignment. Some are more forgiving, and some are terribly unforgiving.
Overdriving fasteners combined with improper alignment is a killer 1-2 punch.
If alignment is not properly addressed/corrected prior, installers often try to push and pull the panel out of plane, resulting in “oil canning,” a common rippling effect that occurs with improper installation. It should be noted, this often is a direct result of the substrate and/or improper installation and does not have any bearing on performance, weather-tightness and warranty. It doesn’t look nice but is not a cause for rejection.
If the steel is out of alignment, the panels can be difficult to engage and perform the way they should.

What Can You Do?

Using a level, laser or a string line, an installer can measure/check the amount that the substructure is either going in or out of plane and correct as needed. For instance, the plane is zero mark-perfectly plumb, perfectly level. There’s an allowable tolerance that the substructure can be out of plane and still be acceptable. Manufacturers often publish recommended tolerances that should always be reviewed. The preferred tolerance being convex (outward) and never concave (inward).

Other Considerations

The main takeaway here is that steps should be taken to prepare a substructure to properly receive the metal panels. Then, diligently check as panels are being installed to ensure proper alignment is maintained and the installer is not inadvertently pushing and pulling them out of alignment, which could result in less than favorable final appearance.

Tips for Installing Metal Roof Curbs

Posted on January 25, 2017March 21, 2025 by kbuchinger

Metal roofs made from galvalume-coated steel provide great corrosion resistance and can readily satisfy a 20-year weather-tightness warranty. However, when a large penetration in the roof is needed, such as a large exhaust fan or other equipment, the integrity of the roof can be compromised if not addressed properly. The common method of dealing with large penetrations (i.e., spanning over one or more standing seams) is to install roof curbs that form the transition between the roof and the equipment being installed.

Of course, like most aspects of building construction, there are choices available in materials, methods, techniques, and styles of installing a roof curb. When the key objective is to provide a curb that will perform for the entire life of the standing seam roof, there are four key points to keep in mind.

Roof Curbs for Standing Seam Metal Roofs

Pick the Proper Material:

A galvalume-coated roof doesn’t mean that a galvanized steel roof curb is the best thing to use – in fact, galvanized roof curbs are known to rust, corrode, and leak, particularly along weld joints, as soon as a year after installation. Instead, a curb made from aluminum (preferred) or stainless steel should be used to prevent premature corrosion. To put any concerns about dissimilar materials and galvanic corrosion to rest, keep in mind that galvalume is approximately 80 percent aluminum by volume, so they are highly compatible.

Rusted Welds on a Galvalume Roof Curb

Use the Proper Roof Curb Type:

It is not uncommon for a roofer to choose a curb type referred to an an “over/over” curb, meaning that, after the opening is cut, the curb is installed over the roofing on both the upslope and the downslope sides. This might be the easiest to install during construction, but it will very likely create more work and callbacks when the upslope side starts to get water into or under the joint, and leaks. Instead, it is well worth taking a few extra minutes to install an “under/over” curb, which places the upslope side under the roofing in a true shingled lap between the curb and the roof. This way, the upslope edge is much more protected and less likely to leak using the same shingled condition occurring on the downslope side – all creating a properly water-shedding, weathertight condition.

Provide the Proper Water Flow Clearance:

We all know that water seeks the path of least resistance, so the key to keep water flowing down a roof is to avoid creating pockets of resistance. This is particularly true on the upslope end of a curb as well as on the two sides parallel to the slope of the roof. A curb with a minimum clearance of 12 inches between it and any other object on the upslope end will give water enough room to flow around the curb easily. Similarly, once the water reaches the two sides, at least 6 inches of free clearance is needed (i.e., without being encumbered by standing seams or other features) to allow the water to keep going and not back up to create a water head at the upslope end of the curb. Simply put, clearance means free-flowing drainage; lack of clearance can mean water buildup and leaks.

Install Roof Curbs Rib to Rib:

Installing curbs that rest in the flat, lower, panel area of metal roofing invites water tightness problems since the curb now has to be installed and sealed in the most vulnerable area – the surface where rainwater flows. Instead, coordinating the curb size with the rib spacing to provide a rib-to-rib curb eliminates fasteners down both sides of the curb in the pan of the roof panels. Placing the curb on and attaching it to the ribs also allows better transitioning from under the roofing on the upslope end to cover the roof on the downslope end. This type of curb has the added benefit of being able to be installed either during the roof installation of after the roof is finished.

Taking these four points into account in your next metal roofing project where roof curbs are required will help assure a well-installed, weathertight condition that should last just as long as the metal roofing system itself.